
This Caucasian Ovtcharka is a livestock guardian dog. It has bonded with the chickens, and it will protect them from predators. My golden retriever, on the other hand, is more likely to catch the chickens and bring them to me.
When we think about the behavior characteristics of working dogs, we often think of several inherited tendencies to exhibit predatory motor patterns. In virtually all working dogs, we want dogs that are very likely to exhibit predatory behavior. Thus, we are selecting for prey drive. However, in livestock guardian dogs, we are selecting for a fundamentally different animal. And that’s why, these breeds behave in ways that many people don’t understand.
For example, in retrievers we want dogs that will run out and grip an object with its mouth. We don’t want a dog that grips the object too hard, so we breed for dogs that are easily trained to grip the object with just enough force to hold onto it. Because the dogs retrieve under all sorts of weather conditions and from both the land and the water, we want really strong prey drive. We also want dogs that at least tolerate other strange dogs, and we would be better off if they really liked meeting new dogs. The extraversion that people associate with golden and Labrador retrievers is functional behavioral conformation. Why? Buddies often go hunting together, bringing their dogs. These dogs may have never met before, and the last thing you want is a big dogfight in a duck blind. Further, in a trial situation, lots of dogs are in one area, so you really don’t want a dog that cannot tolerate other dogs. You also want a dog that takes direction well and is focused very much on human body language and spoken words.
You want similar behavior in trial quality herding dogs and other bird dogs. You do want predatory behavior and prey drive, as high tolerance for strange dogs. Of course, the predatory motor patterns are different in each type, and each discpline requires its own peculiar behavior– like the outrun in a sheep dog trial.
In scent hounds, you want very strong prey drive, a tendency to use the nose to seek out prey (as well as having a good nose), and a high tolerance for other dogs. These dogs are run in packs, and in my part of the world, dogs from different homes are put together to run as a pack. You need dogs that are tolerant of other dogs. In most scent hound breeds, there has been a selection for the baying sound, and many breeders pride themselves on selecting for the best baying hounds. You don’t want any modifications to the predatory motor patterns. You just want a dog that will hunt. These dogs operate independently of the handler, so you really don’t want a dog that takes direction or pays attention to the human voice or body language.
In sight hounds, you want a sprinter that has a tendency to use its eyes in its hunting behavior. Depending upon which game you are hunting, you do want dogs that tolerate other dogs, but if you are hunting coyotes or small wolves (in Central Asia), you might want dogs that might be a little dog aggressive. You want really strong prey drive with little modifications to predatory motor patterns. You want a dog whose predatoy motor patterns are very much triggered through what it sees rather than what it smells, and that is the big difference between these breeds and the scent hounds.
In catch dogs and terriers, you do want dogs with very strong prey drive. However, you want dogs that have a little bit of an edge to them. Typically, a catch dog pack is not made up of strange dogs, so while you may want dogs that get along in a pack, they don’t have to be very tolerant of other dogs. You want the same with the terriers. Because catch dogs will be tackling wild boar and because a terrier could be fighting an animal that could be the the same size it is, you want prey drive that is very strong, as well as very high pain tolerance. You might even want a dog that has tendency to become an adrenaline junky. These characteristics are called “gameness.” The gamest dog I’ve ever known was a Jack Russell terrier that belonged to my grandpa. This particular dog had to be worked several days a week, or she’d start picking fights with other dogs.
Now, sled dogs aren’t selected for prey drive, but in the old days, these dogs had to have some of it. There are accounts of the natives of the Russian Far East and the North American Arctic turning their dogs loose in the summer months. The dogs were forced to fend for themselves, so they had to have predatory behavior. We also have accounts of them being used to hunt polar bears, which means they had to have very strong prey drive and maybe some gameness as well.
In every one of these different working breeds, prey drive and predatory motor patterns are required or at least exist to some degree. However, there is a notable exception.
Now, because North America was mostly settled by people from Northern and Western Europe, we do not have a tradition of livestock guardian dogs. Southern and Eastern Europeans have those traditions. The Spanish introduced their livestock guardian traditions to the territories in the New World, and the Navajo and Apache keep livestock guardian dogs (although quite unlike the big mastiff-types that are used in most of Europe). The Northern and Western Europeans had successfully reduced wolf and bear populations to relict levels, so they had no real use for a dog that could protect the stock. Most stock dogs from those countries and their descendants in other parts of the world are herders. They move the stock through modified predatory motor patterns. If an untrained dog of this type is left alone with the sheep, there is a good chance that the dog will kill the sheep, just like a predator.
In a livestock guardian dog, we want a dog that has almost no predator behavior. In fact, if it has any, it is not easily stimulated to show into hunting mode. When compared with the other working dogs, these animals are sedate. You don’t want a dog that gets all playful and winds up hurting the stock through its boisterousness.
You want a dog with a long critical period for socialization. Now domestic dogs have rather long “critical periods” in which they can imprint on other animals and bond to them. Most domestic dogs don’t have one that extends beyond 12 weeks, and wolves and coyotes have ones that don’t last much longer than a few days after their eyes open. In livestock guardian breeds, the critical period can be as long as 16 weeks. That gives the pup plenty of time to bond to the sheep and learn to accept the shepherd and his other dogs.
Now, unlike retrievers, other bird dogs, and most herders (except the continental shepherd dogs), these dogs develop very strong territorial behavior. In fact, they generally don’t tolerate other dogs at all.
And that’s what you want.
You want a dog that bonds with the sheep, but if it sees another dog or dog-like creature (i.e., a coyote), it will protect the sheep.
Further, you don’t want a dog with lots of energy. A dog with lots of energy could wander from its charges, and that’s the last thing you want.
In short, breeding a livestock guardian dog means selecting for a dog that is very different from virtually all other working breeds. Most people are not accustomed to the behavior of one of these dogs, and that’s why choosing one as a pet is something that should be thought out very carefully. These dogs don’t bond very easily to new families, and one must be very sure that these dogs are chosen with deliberate consideration.
I find them very interesting dogs because they are so different from my dogs. Some fools think that the Caucasian Ovtcharka is the ancestor of the golden retriever. I can’t think of a possibly more unlikely ancestor. The two breeds are like the yen and yang of the canine world. They have nothing in common. An Ovtcharka is a very protective livestock guardian that is of quite large size. It is designed to defend its life and its charges from packs of wolves and the odd brown bear. A golden retriever wouldn’t last five minutes with these animals. It would probably try to play with the wolves. I’ve yet to see a Caucasian Ovtcharka retrieve anything, and I don’t think they are good water dogs. When the Soviets crossed the Caucasian Ovtcharka with the Newfoundland to make the Moscow retriever or Moscow water dog, they produced a dog that would enter the water. However, when it entered the water, it was more likely to bite the drowning person rather than perform a rescue.




As is often the case, real dogs don’t slide nicely into the slots that experts make for them.
I’ve watched my friends’ LGDs on a stakeout for groundhog that is every bit as committed as any cat at a mouse hole. The Maremma cross and Pyr were not going to capture the marmot and add him to the flock. They had lunch in mind, and this is something they achieve quite regularly. I’d call that fully-developed predatory behavior.
Another friend’s Pyr guardian dogs — full siblings, different litters, bred and raised for guardian work, not from a “fancy” breeder or BYB — show the variation in even very close genetics. The older male instantaneously fell into the job of protecting the goats. The bitch was on the verge of being sent to a pet home because she was “playing” with the animals in a way that was becoming dangerous. She’s matured out a little better than expected, but obviously does not have the abilities of her brother.
And my English shepherds, who have high prey drive and the genetic ability to work stock (doG knows they didn’t learn it from my expert instruction), are protective of that same stock, functioning as part-time LGDs. They are particularly incensed by “chicken hawks.” I have no idea where they got the idea that any large bird — as well as the balloonist who periodically invades our airspace — is a threat to the chickens, but their desire to drive off such interlopers seems to be directly related to whether the chickens are out. They are also on high alert at night, even though they sleep in with us, and will bolt out and run off any interloper.
All three English shepherds AND my EXTREMELY HIGH PREY DRIVE German shepherd live free-range with the free-range poultry. They don’t bother the birds, and the birds are unafraid of the dogs. Yet my youngest ES can chastise the rooster at need without getting so excited that she catches and kills him.
The youngest of these dogs was just about a year old when we moved here, the oldest was eight. None were raised with livestock. We were careful about introductions with the first batch of chicks; now they know that peeps grow into chickens, and are not to be touched. Our broodies and their babies forage on, around, and underneath the dogs.
I used to keep muscovy ducks around very predatory Norwegian elkhounds and farm collie that was a hunting dog.
They never touched them. If they had come across a grouse or a turkey, they would have tried to kill it. But not this duck.
Then I got a field bred golden, and it was bye, bye birdy.
That same golden learned to kill rabbits from watching a Norwegian elkhound. Elkhounds, unlike beagles, actually figure out the rabbit’s circular running pattern, and they simply run them hard and then run across the circle to head the rabbit off. She learned to do this, and the rabbits were never safe. And she would eat them, but only after she fetched the body a few times.
These predatory motor partterns are inherited, but they can learn to full predatory sequence. I’m not surprised that even the best livestock guardians will show predatory behavior, but not to their charges, of course.
But there is some inheritance issues with these behaviors. That rabbit killing golden knew how to retrieve birds and even eggs with a soft mouth. (Egg retrieving is a wonderful retriever parlor trick). She was far more interested in birds than any furred prey. If she saw mourning doves and rabbits in the same pasture, she’d go for the doves.
Norwegian elkhound, those that are allowed to hunt, are really an all purpose hunting dog. They’ll do it on their own, and they’ll usually be able to switch prey species. Most beagles can only hunt rabbits. An elkhound can be used on rabbits, squirrels, grouse, and at night, aren’t bad coonhounds. I knew one that would tree raccoon, and you had to take him from the tree. Otherwise, he’d just sit under that tree and starve out the raccoon. And once the raccoon hit the ground, he knew how to dispatch it, which isn’t an easy thing for a single dog to do.
I keep thinking back to an article in Smithsonian Magazine in 1982, I believe by Ray Coppinger; on the differentiation of dog breeds based by head shape. Those that were closest to a puppy were guarding the herds and those that matched the adult were the trackers and sleds dogs. I am sorry I never kept the article not followed up on later work.
Coppinger put all of that stuff into a book, which is where I got some of the information I used in that post.
http://www.amazon.com/Dogs-Startling-Understanding-Behavior-Evolution/dp/0684855305
i just stumbled over this year-old post, which IMO is an excellent caution to the unwary or uneducated – some unethical breeders will sell LGDs to anyone with the price in hand.
and i agree wholeheartedly that LGDs are definitely not for the average pet-home: they arrive with a built-in suite of problematic behaviors, which IME need definite pro-active teaching to modify:
* suspicion of strangers –
they may body-block, shadow, growl + posture, pin [against a wall, fence, etc] any visitor, or tackle and stand over a now-prone unaccompanied intruder, OR… not often but if teased, provoked, or struck at – Bite.
* leaving one in the yard creates major issues –
they often ‘own’ anything they can see, so alert on the neighbors coming home to their own property – Not popular in a suburban cul-de-sac or apt-building.
* dislike of ‘leaving home’ –
if the 9-MO 100# dog does NOT want to get in the car for a vet-trip, whaddya gonna do?
* nocturnal perimeter patrols + alerts –
pacing the house or yard or pasture, barking at any noise; stuff that’s OK in daylight is forbidden at night.
multi-generation show-line Pyrs in the USA can still exhibit any or even all of these, and Ovtcharka, a much-more recent import and less civilized [AKA modified from working behaviors] are thus far IME, simply off the charts for intolerance and often frank aggro toward any non-family human. i have seen none [yet] that would accept any physical manipulation at all, by anyone they did not live with [vet, vet-tech, trainer, groomer, pet-sitter…]; they have all thus far been strictly hands-off dogs.
Kuvasz, Anatolian, Swiss Mountain Dogs to some degree, Spanish Mastiff, Tibetan Mastiff and others can all fall into the night-barking, stranger suspicion, turf-attachment, etc, but few are anywhere near as likely to be so human-aggressive as to bite a stranger without some provocation – markedly unlike my experience thus far with Ovtcharkas.
most LGDs are not quick to bite; the several Ovtcharka breeds, sometimes mislabeled ‘Caucasian Shepherd’, etc, are IME a distinct exception.
of course, this is my experience and opinion –
a UK-breeder has taken severe exception to my statement that Ovtcharkas are not for novice-owners and do not suit the huge majority of pet-homes. ;–)
since i also counsel against JRTs for novice-owners, due to their reactivity, common dog-aggro, exercise demands, terrierrrist nippy-nature, etc, i will continue to say that a breed who is territorial and stranger-intolerant is not a good choice, for a pet-home in an urban or suburban area with loads of near-neighbors – and that applies to any LGD, not only Ovtcharkas.
any dog-novice who buys or adopts an LGD is in for a rude awakening, and their neighbors may have some highly unpleasant experiences, before the new-owner is halfway up their learning-Matterhorn, IMO.
– terry
terry pride, APDT-Aus, apdt#1827, CVA, TDF
Excellent additions.
I’m very leery of the Caucasian ovtcharka for novice owners.
It really is one of those dogs that will guard against bears and wolves. And it’s not a joke– they kill do kill wolves.
It’s not very common, but they have.